My Sampler Color-Strand Knit Scarf


As a prelude to writing this post, I looked up the definition of sampler. I had always thought of it in terms of an embroidered piece used to practice different techniques. Beginners would create a sampler and in the process be introduced to a variety of techniques and materials.

Def 2

Turns our there is some disagreement. Many definitions emphasize that a sampler is for showing off your best skills. Another complained that the term is often misused and must include an alphabet. Still others extend the definition to the person as well as the piece.

Well, I feel pretty safe calling my scarf a “sampler” of color strand knitting. I made it to try patterns and colors without committing to a single scheme. I didn’t really plan it out ahead of time, but rather looked for a pattern I liked, chose some yarn, knit for a few inches, and finished a section. Then I moved on to something new.

Color strand knitting is fun, but challenging. For me the hardest part is getting the tension right. The stranded colors are carried behind the main color and it is easy to pull them too tight and make the work bump up or pull in. While watching a video a knitter answered the question “how loose is too loose?” (for the color strands). Her reply was that there is no such thing as too loose.

For me, the easiest patterns are those that interchange the colors a lot. If the colors change every stitch of two, then the yarns aren’t pulled on the back. On the other hand, if one color is carried for a lot of stitches before it is used again, there is an opportunity for it to get messy.

Each sections taught me something about color strand knitting. Where I worked up the pattern myself from my imagination or examples that I saw, I have included the pattern. For those sections where I used a pattern created by someone else, I did not include it.

I chose to make the scarf on size 7 circular needles so that all the strands would be on the inside and not messing. In this way, I didn’t even have to weave ends! I cast on 72 stitches. I love this number. It is divisible by 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 9, 12, 18, 24, and 36. This meant I had a great deal of latitude when choosing the size of the pattern to be repeated. Each section starts and ends with two rows of the main color. This helps delineate the sections.

The yarn is acrylic yarn from my stash. If I make another, I will choose better yarns. But this was a good choice for a starter scarf. I hate to waste my good yarn on projects if I don’t know how they are going to turn out.

It is wonderfully warm and thick. I can’t wait to liven up my gray coat with it this winter. I wonder what people will think.

Section 1 – Gray and White Fair Isle



I started with an easy section that didn’t need a written pattern or row counter. The stitches switch color often enough that there was not trouble with tension. Every other row has stitches of every other color. The white thread is just carried up the rows when not in use. I didn’t want the too ends to be the same, exactly, so I reversed the colors for the last section. I like the way it turned out.

Section 2 – Sheep


Baaaa! This was a big leap for me. It is one of  only two sections where there are more than two colors in any one row. The sheep are a bit “puffy” due to inconsistent yarn tension, a mistake. But most people like them. Some even thought I had done this on purpose. It seems to be the favorite. Maybe I will make a scarf with just sheep the next time.

Section 3 – Red on Red Diamonds

Red Diamonds

Whenever I used bright colors, I tried to make the sections more narrow so the color did not take over the scarf. In this section I use a solid red and a variegated red yarn. I thought the diamonds would look nice, but instead the yarns were so close in color that the pattern is lost. Lesson learned. In the future I will choose more contrasting yarns.

Section 4 – Egyptian Border


I designed this pattern from some borders on old Egyptian textiles. You can see that I was still having tension problems. Here is the pattern:

Egyptian Border Pattern Pic

Section 5 – Fish


These are supposed to be gold fish swimming in the pond. I chose a blue sparkly variegated yarn for the water and I like this choice. For the fish I use the only orangish yarn I had, a fluffy, variegated, yarn with varying thickness. Bad choice. The details of the fish are lost where the yarn is extra fluffy. Some people even have trouble seeing the fish when I tell them they are there! Next time I will use yarns that are similar in texture, especially with small detail patterns.

Fish Pattern Pic

Section 6 – Argyle


I love argyle. What I learned from this section was not to knit when I was tired. I left out a row! Can you see where? I didn’t notice it until it was far too late to go back.

Argyle Pattern Pic

Section 7 – Transition


This pattern transitions from one color to another and the second half of the pattern is the mirror image of the first. This section turned out longer than any so far. I think if I made another scarf I would try to make the sections more similar in size. Perhaps two sizes.

Transition Pattern Pic

Section 8 – Squares


This is another bright, an therefore narrow, section.

Section 9 – Owls


This section also turned out larger than I would have liked. In order to get any detail in the owls, they have to be large. I probably would choose simpler outlines next time so the section did not turn out so long compared to the other sections.

Owl pattern pic

Section 10 and 11 – Fair Isle Geometrics


This is a narrow red and gray section, followed by a more intricate fair isle pattern in blue, light blue, and white. Here again, there are three colors in some rows. I hold the main color in my left hand and “throw it” while holding the other colors in my right hand and “picking them”. It isn’t that hard to keep two colors in one hand, but it does increase the complexity of keeping all the tensions even.

Blue diamond patter pic

Section 12 – Binary


This black and white section actually says something –  the United Nations Declaration of Human Rights (preamble and article 1). Each letter was converted to an eight character ascii code consisting of zeroes and ones. The digits were then knit in black and white. Because each letter is eight characters and 8 goes into 72 evenly, the letter line up. Each letter has a some similarities and when it is knit you see stripes of two black stitches. This section was very difficult to knit since it did not repeat in any meaningful way. To help keep track of the pattern, I used a pattern reading device made of cardboard, similar to the one shown here. Once I transferred the pattern to a spreadsheet and printed the columns, it worked very very well. There is a typo. I dare you to find it.

Section 13 – Camino


This section commemorates my hike on El Camino de Santiago del Norte. As you walk along the route, you find your way by following blue signs with yellow arrows and shells.

There are official signs and those painted by helpful people. I tried to work out a pattern for the shells, but the diagonal nature of the lines made that difficult. I like the way the arrows turned out.

Camino Pattern Pic

Section 14 – Purple Fair Isle Diamonds


This is similar to the argyle section but better. I didn’t skip a row and the yarns show more contrast.

Purple Diamond Pattern Pic

Section 15 – Peace Baby


I knew I wanted many colors in this section but I couldn’t work out the color rows in a way that I liked. So instead a chose a rainbow variegated yarn. I wonder how it would look with the yarns reversed, rainbow background and white or black peace signs.

Peace Pattern Pic

Section 16 – Diamond Fair Isle


This is a geometric pattern was good practice carrying the yarn with loose tension. I thought it was getting too long so I stopped the pattern one diamond series earlier than the pattern shows. By this section I was getting pretty good at “trapping” the carried yarn into a stitch in between where it shows through. It was tricky to learn and makes the work go more slowly, but in the end it is worth it to control tension and the loose hanging yarns.

Diamond Dot Pattern Pic

Section 17 – Cats


These cats are adorable and I copied them from a cross stitch towel at a friend’s house. Nothing I came up with was any cuter. Each little face is different. This is another section where a color was carried for 10-15 stitches on the back. So here again I “trapped” the yarn. There are good YouTube videos to learn this technique.

Section 18 – Gray and White End


This section is the opposite of the first, with the white yarn being the dominate color.

I sewed the ends of the scarf closed with the invisible stitch. I had planned to decorate the ends with pom pons but the consensus was that they would detract from the scarf. I can always add them later I decide it needs them.

I worked on the scarf off and on for months. I’m glad its done and mostly happy with the way it turned out.

Here are the main lessons I learned:

  1. Control the tension of the yarns.
  2. Be sure the yarns contrast enough that the pattern can be seem.
  3. Use yarns that have the same thickness.
  4. Keep motifs of a similar size.

As always, your polite and helpful comments are welcome.


My First Knit Socks


I finished my socks! I have never knit socks before. While I was at my spinning class recently, one of the others spinners helped my choose a pattern at the Siever’s bookstore and gave me some advice on how to proceed. I bought two books including one that shows how to knit socks two-at-a-time on a larger circular needle.


I decided to take along the basic pattern when we went to Florida in September. We were flying so I couldn’t take all my knitting but thought I might have some time to at least read about socks.


As it turns out, we ended up weathering Hurricane Irma in a shelter. When I thought we were just going to be in for some rain I bought some needles and yarn. There was not a good selection and I ended up using cotton/nylon yarn. It sounded like a good idea but probably was not the best choice. I even knit a small sample to check the gauge, something I have only recently started doing.


I began with the “simple socks” as instructed by the author.


Working with two circular needles was easier than I thought. I don’t mind DP needles but this was pretty interesting. I never had to use stitch holders or worry about needles slipping out (something that happens to me occasionally when I use DPs).


But the pattern wasn’t without its challenges. Because of the ribbing, I sometimes had to purl the first stitch on the new needle. After a bunch of practice, I finally figured out where the yarn had to be placed, but you can see I made a number of mistakes. After another “fatal” flaw I had to pull out these stitches and I did better after the second start.


Since I hadn’t actually planned on knitting, I did not pack my implements – no row counters, stitch markers, rulers, etc. So when we moved to the shelter I had to improvise. I used a paper plate to keep track of progress and some yarn ties as stitch markers.

cut pic


Of course I didn’t get them completely done in the shelter. But once I got home I did. I understand now what is meant by “second sock syndrome”. But I persevered and eventually got them both done. After having to restart and unknit some sections I decided to put in a “life line” in case I needed to go back. As you can see, I ran the lifeline through the stitch marker. Well, that wasn’t right! So I just left it there and used another marker to proceed. Lesson learned.


The socks fit pretty well. But the cotton yarn doesn’t have much elasticity so they bag out a bit after wearing them a short time. I threw them into the washer and dryer, but they are still too loose. For my next pair I think I will drop down a needle size and choose a wool yarn.

I may move on to trying the magic loop method and then eventually two-at-a-time with magic loop. I have already learned so much about sock knitting! I am looking forward to perfecting the process.

Thanks, Shawn, for your advice!

As always, your polite and helpful comments are welcome.


18” Doll Cardigan with Lacy Raglan Seam


18” Doll Cardigan with Lacy Raglan Seam

After knitting two little baby sweaters in the “top down” raglan design, I decided to try a couple variations. One way to practice a concept is to make doll clothes. The 18” dolls, like the American Girl Dolls and those like them are large enough to judge results, but small enough to work the project up quickly without too much material. Here is picture of the finished sweater and the pattern for making it.

This is the story of this pattern for a lacy cardigan for an 18” doll. My approach to many projects is like sighting in a gun. Try it, fix it, try it, fix it again.


I had been using US 5 needles for the baby sweaters so I had a gauge for them using baby yarn. I really wanted to use worsted weight since I have so much of it so I measured the dolls and guessed at the gauge. If you are a regular reader you know that I am lazy and optimistic when it comes to gauge.

My plan was to cast on some stitches (40), knit some ribbing (K1P1 for 3 rows), use a single stitch as the raglan “seam”, increase before and after each seam with a YO stitch (to create holes in a lacy pattern), create front plackets (K4) at the start and end of each row, create buttonholes with YO (4 evenly spaced), and finish the body and sleeves with ribbing (K1P1 for 4 rows). Easy peasy, right?!

Here’s how I came up with 40 stitches to cast on:

Front Placket – 4

Front – 3

Seam – 1

Sleeve – 6

Seam – 1

Back – 10

Seam – 1

Sleeve – 6

Seam – 1

Front – 3

Front Placket – 4

I first guessed that the raglan region should be about 16 rows. That would give me 8 increases since increases are only done every other row on the right (knit) side. Each increase row adds 8 stitches, one before and one after each of the 4 seams. Half of those stitches are in the body and half are in the sleeves. That gave me a body of about 58 stitches and that seemed like a good starting point.

When the body was done and the sleeve stitches were still on their holding yarn, I tried it on the doll. Big moment.

It was passable. If I were in a hurry to give the sweater to someone I would have finished it, sewn on the buttons and sent it away. But I was really interested in perfecting the pattern so I didn’t even finish the sleeves. There were several things I didn’t like about this first attempt and set out to fix them.

  1. The worsted weight yarn on the small size 5 needles was so bulky that it filled in the spaces around the raglan seam and holes obliterating them visually. The lace didn’t show up.
  2. The sweater is generally just too big.
  3. The buttonholes were created in the front placket by K2, YO, K2tog. To space them evenly I tried to recreate this look working back across on a purl (WS) row. As you can see from the picture, I did not get the horizontal spacing right. Sometime I will work on that issue, but for now, all buttonholes should be created in the same direction, at the start of the knit (RS) rows.

There really was not choice but to switch to a lighter weight yarn. I guess the worsted weight yarns will just have to wait for a different project. I chose a Lion Brand  Wool-Ease sportweight yarn (5 oz = 435 yards) color 232 “Wood” and knit the exact same pattern with no changes. There was really no quick way to tell how much effect the lighter yarn would have on the sweater’s fit. So this was shot number 2.

The sweater was too small. I was starting to feel like Goldilocks. So I decided to extend the raglan seam 2 rows, extend the length of the body 4 rows and extend the length of the sleeves.

This third attempt was pretty close to the target. I think the sleeves are still a little short. Four to six more rows and they will be perfect.


I like the pattern and I think the details in the raglan seam show up much better with the lighter weight yarn.


Just for fun, I have included these two pdf documents to show how to make a pattern reader that acts as both instructions and a row counter.

Doll Cardigan Reader Version

Pattern Reader

Full Disclosure – This was not my idea!


Print the instructions and trim them. Print the reader and use a sharp cutter to slice along the lines. Insert the instructions into the gap. As you can see, only one row at a time is visible. At the end of each row, slide the instructions up to the next line. Using this device, there is no need for a separate row counter. In this example I figured out exactly how many stitches were in each row and described what to do with them. You may think this is excessive in detail, but I’m sure some new knitters (or those who get disturbed often) will appreciate it.

I hope you enjoy the sweater pattern. Post a picture of your sweater in the comment section if you make one. I would enjoy seeing them.

As always, your polite and helpful comments are welcome.

Confetti Baby Sweater

I don’t like to have more than one project on needles at a time, but babies just won’t wait. So I set aside the Fair Isle Sampler Scarf that I have been working on and decided to knit this sweater for my niece whose baby is due soon.



I used a free pattern I found online. I had already made this sweater in a marl grey for another family baby.


sweater patternTop Down Raglan Baby Sweater     Designed by Carole Barenys

I am very grateful to those who share instructions online. I used her newborn size but it turned out bigger, maybe 9 month.


yarn front



I used the same kind of Bernat Softee Baby yarn that I used last time, in a different color. The sweater is VERY soft and cuddly.








The yarn I used this time is confetti color and turned out really cute.

Note the little buttonhole (at the left in the picture above) created by a YarnOver stitch followed by KnitTwoTogether.

Here some more pictures.


I love the way this pattern uses two purl stitches to delineate the raglan seam. It make a little “ditch” that is very pretty.


The cuffs and collar are knit on smaller needles than the rest of the sweater to make the ribbing nice.


I used white buttons. I would have preferred pink, but the local fabric store seems to have a more limited selection every time I go there.


The design is top down, so there are no seams. Last time I used rigid stitch holders to hold the sleeve stitches while I finished the body. The stitches in the underarm area seemed to get stretched out. So this time I use yarn to hold the stitches. It didn’t help. I still had to reweave the area. Next time I will do a little research and see if I can find out what I am doing wrong.

I hope she likes it. It is so much fun to knit for babies. I will drop the package in the mail today.

Now, back to my scarf.

As always, your polite and helpful comments are welcome.



March For Science Hats

I am in support of science and I have become convinced by the evidence that the process of peer review is a self correcting path forward to understanding the universe in which we live.


On Earth Day, April 22, 2017 there will be a March For Science in Washington DC and satellite marches in other cities around the country. Why would someone march for science? Why would such a thing be necessary?

Because, non-partisan, evidenced based policy is in the public interest.

If you want to make a hat to wear, or just to commemorate the occasion, here is my contribution.

The women’s Peer Review Hat pattern is 64 stitches. If you make it with a US size 8 or 9 needle, it should fit most women. The men’s Demand Evidence Hat pattern is 88 stitches. I suggest a US size 6 needle for a man’s hat. Use whatever gauge you need to make a hat with the circumference you plan. I feel certain that my science friends will be able to figure out the math using these guidelines.

In honor of science, the measurement are are given in SI units.

Note that the patterns appear as reverse lettering. This is because the knit stitches are worked counter-clockwise but people read the message clockwise. This issue doesn’t affect motifs like snowflakes, animals, or geometric patterns as they can be reversed and still look OK. But letters are different, they have to be oriented in the correct direction and placed in order correct. Except I guess for some words with reversible letters and letter orders: MOM, TOT, OH HO. Though I have never actually knit any of these words on a hat.


W inst

Peer Review Backwards


M inst

Demand evidence backwards

As with my other recent projects, I tried to practice a new technique with the hats. On the Peer Review hat, the white strand is carried across the back of the work for quite a distance, especially at the top and bottom of the letter pattern. After watching a few videos and checking out a few posts, I learned how to “trap” the yarn every few stitches so that it did not hang too loosely in these places.


I had a bit of trouble pulling the trapped strand too tight so that it showed through from the front, but I got better as I went along.


In this picture you can see several of my tricks. I use a different color marker (white in this case) to show the beginning of the round and to distinguish that from the section stitch markers (cream color). You can also see that I use a gray “life line” before I started the crown. This is because no matter how careful I am I sometimes let a DP needle slip out of the work. I think it is particularly difficult to pick up all the stitches on circular work since it won’t lay flat on the table as you try to save it. The life line is a thread that is run through all the stitches at some point. If you have to pull out stitches, this offers an easy place to pick them back up again.

I am always so grateful for the willingness of others to share their expertise. You never know when the advice you post will be exactly the thing that someone needs to move forward. These bits of advice are timeless and will continue to provide instruction and encouragement for …… I don’t know how long. How long will the internet be around?

I plan to send my commemorative hats off to my favorite science couple.  Remember, as the woman’s sign says:



Baby Sweater and Hat – Expanding My Repertoire


Lately it seems I have been knitting a lot of easy hats, scarves, shawls, and cowls. They are fun and relaxing, but I have decided to try some new things. I have been trying to select projects that force me to practice new or more complicated techniques.

My nephew and his wife are expecting a baby soon so I decided to knit a sweater and hat. This Bernat Softee Baby yarn in grey marl color was hard to resist.

Those of you who are frequent readers know that I am rather lazy and over confident when it comes to gauge, so I wasn’t surprised when the sweater turned out a little bigger than expected. Nice that the baby can grow into it. I used a free pattern:

sweater pattern


Top Down Raglan Baby Sweater     Designed by Carole Barenys

I am very grateful to those who share instructions online. I used her newborn size but it turned out bigger, maybe 9 month.

For the hat  I used measurements (again, thanks to those of your who share your knowledge) to decide dimensions, used the same size needles and the same yarn as the sweater, so I already knew the gauge. The hat turned out newborn size. I thought about knitting a new sweater or a new hat so they would be matching size but in the end I just sent them both. Who can guess what size babies will wear in each season?

So here are the sweater and hat with a list of the new techniques I used to make each.

sweater with wordshat with words

I learned quite a bit with these items. I have started a new sweater for my niece’s expected baby. I am adjusting the size a bit. But I don’t want to tell too much because I want her to be surprised.

As always, your polite and helpful comments are welcome.

Knitting Needle Cases – Free Pattern

large small

chest front

I recently had an old spool chest refinished and plan to store my knitting supplies in it. I decided to sew some needle storage cases to keep my knitting supplies neat in the drawers. I had seen cases for sale but never any that I liked. They looked poorly made and seemed pricey. You will find the instructions for making these two cases and two others (for circular and DP needles) in this post.

green chest

The chest had belonged to my mother for as long as I could remember. It had been painted green at some point. Later someone began to strip the paint but only removed a little from the top. When I heard good things about a local refinisher, I decided to have it restored. It turned out really well.

chest backchest side1chest side2

chest knob

Some of the green paint remains on the handles. I like it that way.

It seems appropriate that if it is not going to be used to store thread, that at least it should be used to store fiber craft supplies. There are enough drawers for knitting, crocheting, and weaving tools and instructions booklets.

To help organize the knitting needles I sewed four separate cases. One case for long straight needles, one for short straight needles, one for circular needles, and the last for double pointed needles. Each can lay flat in a drawer or be folded, stacked, and carried in a bag.

The fabric is cotton duck (sometimes called canvas). It is sturdy, inexpensive, and has a nice industrial look that I like. The binding on the edges is black, half inch wide, double fold bias tape.

Large and Small Straight Needle Cases

The two cases for straight needles are made in exactly the same way as each other. They are the same width, but have different lengths.

1. For the smaller case for 10” needles, cut a piece of fabric 13” wide and 24” long. For the larger case for 14” needles, cut a piece of fabric 13” wide and 33” long.

2. Sew a piece of bias tape on one of the short sides. No need to finish the edges as they will be covered up.

3. Fold the side with the bias tape up 9” as shown for the small case and 13” for the large case.


4. At two places, mark the center 6 1/2” from each edge as shown.


5. Mark the center line with a straight edge and pin the fabric in place so it won’t slip as shown.


6. Stitch along the center line. I ran the stitching back and forth at the bottom and at the bias tape. This is not a prom dress that needs to “hang and flow”. It is a case that may get some tugging so no harm in making it sturdy.

stitching dividers

7. Mark the rest of the divider lines, each 1 inch apart as shown. The outer sections will be a bit wider since this is where the bias tape edges will be applied.

marking dividers1

marking dividers2

marking dividers3

marking dividers4

8. Stitch each dividers as you did the center divider. Stitch back and forth at the top and bottom to make them sturdy.

stitching dividers2

9. Cut and sew a piece of bias tape on the top edge. No need to finish the ends as they will be covered up.

top bias

10. Cut pieces of bias tape to finish the edges. Cut each piece about 26” long so you will have about an inch at each corner to fold under. This will give you a finished corner.

11. Draw a light pencil line as a guide for the numbers. I thought I had a stencil but couldn’t find it. So I just wrote the numbers free hand with a black Sharpie.


The flap folds over to keep the needles in place. The case can be folded in half or rolled up.


Case for Double Pointed Needles


This case is made specifically for the DP needles that I have. I did not make a slot for every possible size like I did for the straight needles. You can adjust the widths of the slots for your own collection. I also have not numbered the slots yet, but will.

1. Cut a piece of fabric 20” wide and 22” long.

2. Sew pieces of bias tape on both 22” sides. No need to finish the edges as they will be covered up.


3. Fold the side with the bias tape up 9” as shown and mark the slots. I decided on two 3” pockets, four 1” pockets, four 3/4” pockets, and three 2” pockets. Starting at the left edge, make marks at the following distances from the left hand edge in inches.

3 1/2  – 6 1/2  – 7 1/2  – 8 1/2  – 9 1/2  – 10 1/2  – 11 1/4  – 12  – 12 3/4  – 13 1/2  – 15 1/2  – 17 1/2


4. Mark and stitch slots. Sew forward and back at the top and bottom of each slot to make it sturdy.


5. Cut pieces of bias tape to finish the edges. Cut each piece about 26” long so you will have about an inch at each corner to fold under. This will give you a finished corner.


This case can be folded in thirds, inward from each edge. It is then the same width as the other cases. The fourth case, the one for circular needles can also be folded in thirds so the stack of all four cases is only 7” wide.

Case for Circular Needles


The circular needle case has 15 pockets, each 6” x 6” to hold the needles. This case is a little different in that I tried to use the selvedge edge of the fabric in several places to avoid fraying. I cut the original piece of fabric with a selvedge edge at the top and didn’t apply bias tape because I was not sure I was going to have enough tape to finish. In the end, I did have enough and added it across the top just to make all the case look the same. Otherwise it would have bothered me. Some of you know what I mean.

I also cut the four 6” rectangle that make up the layered pocket with a selvedge edge. In this way, I could sew them to the main fabric piece without finishing them (which would add extra bulk) but also without having to worry that they would fray and come loose.

1. Cut a piece of fabric 20” wide and 28” long. Cut four other pieces 20” wide and 6” long. Try to use the selvedge edge along the 20” side of these smaller pieces. If you cannot, cut them 6 1/2” long and fold the edge under 1/2” and stitch. This will create a finished edge to sew onto the main fabric piece.

2. Stitch bias tape along the top and bottom of the large piece and along the top edge of the other four pieces.


3. Draw four lines on the large fabric piece for placement of the smaller pieces. The lines should be measured from the bottom edge 14”, 12”, 10”, 8”. Sorry the ruler is backwards in the picture. Sometimes I think in unusual ways.


4. Place the bottom edge of one small piece on the top, 14″, marked line of the large piece as shown. Stitch in place close to the selvedge edge.

circ4circ stitch3

5. Place another small piece on the 12” line, sew in place. Continue in this way until all four small piece are sewn to the large piece.

6. Fold the bottom of the large piece up 6” and pin it.


7. Draw stitching lines measuring from the left hand side at 6 1/2” and 13 1/2”.


8. Stitch these lines, stitching back and forth at the top and bottom to reinforce the stitching.


9. Cut pieces of bias tape to finish the side edges. Cut each piece about 30” long so you will have about an inch at each corner to fold under. This will give you a finished corner.


This case can be folded in thirds, inward from each edge. It is then the same folded width as the other cases. Remember, I didn’t add the top piece of bias tape until the end so it is not shown in some  pictures.

all cases

Here is what the set of four cases look like with my needles in them. They all fold in half or thirds and are then 7” wide.

Even thought I plan to mostly keep them in the spool chest, I did sew up a matching bag to slide them all in for travel.

Now that I have the pattern designed, I plan to make more. I think I will try denim next. The bias tape was the most expensive part of the project so I think I will try to make my own bias tape next time. If I do, I will be sure to write about it.

As always, your polite and helpful comments are welcome!


Pink PussyCat Hat

I knit a lot of things for friends. Recently, a friend asked if I would knit a pink pussycat hat for her mother. I had seen pictures and started thinking about how I could make a hat with cat ears. Then it dawned on me that there were probably instructions online. No point in reinventing the wheel. Sure enough, I found this site.p6

The hat pattern was unusual. I had never knit a hat in this way before. A rectangular hat with ribbing at each end is folded in half and sewn along the two sides. These images are from the web site listed about.

The hat was easily knit on straight needles. I chose a pink variegated yarn.


This is how it looks flat. The ears appear when it is worn. It was plenty large for an adult woman.


I hope she likes it!

UPDATE (2/23/17)

I got a request for another hat after displaying this one. This time the color is bright pink.

Here is what the hat looked like before it was sewn.


Here is what it looked like when finished.



Knitting Update


Yarn was on sale this month and I couldn’t help stocking up a little. Sometimes I get requests for items and that has been happening more since I started writing about knitting on my blog. People also see stuff in my Etsy store GoodForGoodnessSake. All profits from the store are donated to veterans charities.

Here are some things I have been working on.

Linda’s Hat


After seeing the “Snowy Day Hats” in the Etsy store, a friend said she couldn’t decide between the gray one and the blue one. She liked the ribbing on the blue one but the color of the gray one. It was funny to watch her reaction when I said I could make her a gray one with the ribbing she liked. I guess people aren’t use to custom ordering.

Woman’s Beany

I really like working out new patterns for ideas that are rolling around in my head. Here is a woman’s beanie knitted with two strands of worsted weight yarn. The color combinations would be plentiful and it would be a great stash buster. I intend to knit several in team colors for the Etsy store (when I get time of course). I will write about the pattern later.

Super Warm Cowl


This super warm and thick cowl is all about function. Made with thick yarn, it even stands up on its own. I had made one originally for a man, but his wife liked it so I made one for her, too. It stands up so well that I am considering using the pattern to make a basket.

Cozy Ear Warmer / Headbands


The pattern for these easy cozy ear warmers is found in a previous post.

A friend wanted three ear bands for her daughter/granddaughters. I invited her to look over the yarn I had and she couldn’t narrow it down to three. So I told her I would knit her four chosen yarns into bands and she could choose from the finished projects. Whichever one she does not choose, I will sell in the Etsy store.

Shawl in a Ball Shawl


An earlier post describes a shawl pattern called Silvery Shawl. I had to make three of those. As soon as people saw them (and felt them) I had several requests. I finally found the yarn called Shawl in a Ball that I had intended to use and now I am knitting the same pattern in a new yarn. I can’t wait to see how it turns out!

That is what I have been up to lately. As always, your polite and helpful comments are welcome.